Articles - Miscellaneous

MY JOURNEY TO THE ROOF OF AFRICA

Many of you will know that I recently went to Tanzania to climb Kilimanjaro. Many of you were kind enough to sponsor me. In the end, I hope to have raised over £4,000 for St. Gemma's Hospice. I have to say I have been overwhelmed and touched by people's generosity, good wishes and their support (both practical and prayer).

What can I say about the trip? Certainly it was the toughest thing I have ever done. It was full of contrasts. When I set off I had many unanswered questions. Was I fit enough? How would the altitude affect me? I wondered what I had let myself in for. After all, I had never undertaken anything like this before.

It was therefore with great trepidation that I journeyed to Heathrow to meet my fellow trekkers for the first time. I had visions of experienced trekkers .... and me. I need not have worried. I met a group of 25 very friendly people whose ages ranged from 20s to 50s, from all walks of life and some with no trekking experience at all. I breathed a sigh of relief! As a group, we were raising monies for various Hospices, the R.N.L.I. and even to raise awareness of Domestic Violence in Russia. Certainly a mixed bag!

I spent the first few days gazing in wonder at the sights enfolding before me - wide African plains, the elegant Masai (one of whom had run in the London Marathon a few years ago!), real Zebra (great excitement!), fresh elephant footprints (but minus its owner). The list is endless.

We were divided into two teams to make the trek more manageable. I joined Team B which comprised four girls and eight men. We walked well together and soon developed a good team spirit. I was heartened to see how we very quickly started caring for and encouraging each other. We shared laughter, our highs and lows -- it felt good.

We started walking through rain forest amongst wondrous trees and lush greenery. We saw the occasional monkey peering at us from on high. Everyday, we climbed higher, slowly acclimatising. Each day brought new challenges, yet we found we could meet them. I was not sleeping well and was experiencing panic attacks during the night (apparently this is a normal occurrence at altitude). Also, I could not empty my mind. A team member told me off for having long chats to God at 3a.m! I soon learned to control the panic attacks and just "to be" so that I was rested the following morning. There was something new to learn, experience and deal with each day.

The landscape changed, becoming barren with sparse vegetation. I was soon wearing thermals and bedsocks to keep me warm at night. Glamour did not feature!! I seem to remember living in my fleece hat during the day and night - my unwashed hair looked so awful, it was probably a good thing! I vowed to burn that hat upon my return to Leeds!

The altitude made my eyes puffy and my hands swell. At times I felt nauseous and found it difficult to eat. I could not keep clean as the fine volcanic dirt was everywhere. It was about this time that I started dreaming of the Turkish Baths in Harrogate! Whenever a clean item of clothing was worn, it was an event to be shared with those around you.

I have to mention the food. The Tanzanian cooks managed to produce amazing food for us despite the inhospitable conditions. We breakfasted on porridge or gruel (depending on the consistency), omelette, sausage, toast and fresh fruit. Each evening, soup would appear followed by a meat dish. They even managed roast potatoes of a sort one evening! Every day, the topic of conversation as we drew neared to camp was "what soup tonight?"

After six days of walking, we reached the final camp at 16,000 feet. This was what we had come for. I can remember the final briefing from our Tanzanian Guides and afterwards, watching the faces, everyone lost in their own thoughts -  there was silence.

We set off for the summit at midnight still in our teams. It was pitch black, our head torches lit the way.  We had been told this was likely to be the toughest day that most trekkers experience. We were under no illusions. Very quickly, I felt that all was not well. The pace seemed too fast, I did not feel in control and I began to panic. I can remember praying for help. Strangely, at that moment, I knew I was going to reach the top - I just did not know how! My prayers were soon answered in the form of Joseph, a Tanzanian Guide. He knew how the altitude was affecting me. I could not control my legs properly - I must have looked quite drunk!! Every three steps I had to stop for breath and to summon the energy to start the next three. I had 3,340 feet to climb.  It was going to be slow progress! Joseph stayed with me throughout the climb - encouraging me, preventing me from falling and keeping me warm each time I stopped. My guardian Angel. We made it to the summit (19,340 feet) in time to see the sunrise at 6.30a.m

Oddly enough, I felt no elation. I don't remember feeling anything other than total disbelief when I realised I had to climb down again. Somehow I'd managed to forget that part!

It took two days to descend and in no time we were transported to a Lodge on a coffee plantation. I cannot find the words to express how it felt to have my first shower and hair wash for eight days, to sleep in a bed and even to have the use of a sit down flushing toilet! All things we take for granted. We enjoyed a fabulous celebration dinner (in case any of you were worried, soup was served) with proper chairs to sit on, white napery and a yummy chocolate cake. We soon forgot the egg and chips we had been dreaming of on the mountain!

I hope to return to Tanzania one day, although not to Kilimanjaro. Once was enough! Over the past six months, I have experienced so much as I prepared for this climb. I have made new friends, met new challenges, even astounded myself at times. Throughout, I always felt that God wanted me to undertake this journey. In due course, I hope to have some understanding of why!

In the meantime, I would like to say again a big thank you to everyone from St. Edmunds who so generously sponsored me and to those who so willingly covered my Warden duties on a Sunday morning. Finally, I must thank Anne, my co-warden, who shouldered most of the Warden duties on her own for six months whilst I was busy training.  

Jo Curtis

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